2019 Seed List

su. Promiscuously pollinated. Multi-colored. Mid-season (~65 to 75 days). Selected for colorful cobs at milk stage and for resistance to predation by birds and small mammals. It has that fabulous old-fashioned corn taste: Chewy and flavorful without being overly sweet. A robust landrace that is reliable and easy to grow. Developed for subsistence level growing conditions without cides nor fertilizers. An excellent choice for tough growing conditions and for people wanting to save their own seeds or to develop their own variety of sweet corn. I consider this to be the best sweet corn I have to offer for an emergency survival stash. Descended primarily from Alan Bishop's Astronomy Domine Sweet Corn which is descended from hundreds of varieties of heirloom and modern sweet corns. It has been in my garden for a long time, and has drifted significantly away from the original, so a new name seems appropriate. Very tolerant of cold spring soil. OSSI-pledged. 3 Tablespoons, >150 seeds.

F1 Hybrid. White or yellow kernels.. (~75 DTM?). The mother of this hybrid is Lofthouse-Astronomy Sweet corn. The pollen donors are Ambrosia or Who Gets Kissed. 25% of the kernels in the offspring are expected to be sugary enhanced. After a decade of trying, and failing, to breed a reliable sugary enhanced sweet corn, I finally found a workable solution. This hybrid combines the thick skin and reliable germination of Lofthouse-Astronomy Sweet Corn with the extra sugar levels in homozygous sugary enhanced sweet corns. Variety preservation protocol: Seeds will not come true to type. Remake the hybrid as needed. 1 Tablespoon, ~60 seeds.

su. Promiscuously pollinated. Mostly white or yellow kernels.. (~75 to 80 days?). A sweet corn selected out of a hybrid between Harmony Grain Maize and Lofthouse-Astronomy Sweet corn. This is an experimental corn that I might only offer this year. Eventually, I expect to merge it back into the Lofthouse-Astronomy population. Variety preservation protocol: Cull any red, purple, or gray kernels. 1 Tablespoon, ~40 seeds.

I love, love, love the taste of carotenes in my food! Deep orange kernels with high levels of beta-carotene. The best tasting sweet corn that I grow. su. Promiscuously pollinated. A sweet corn selected out of a hybrid between a high carotene South American flint, and Lofthouse-Astronomy Sweet corn. Variety preservation protocol: Cull any cobs with white kernels, or colored pericarp. Cull any red, purple, or gray seeds. I am pleased to finally have enough of this seed to offer a larger packet size. The high carotene trait is an ancient public domain trait that is obvious and not novel, making this trait inelligible for patenting. 2 Tablespoons, >100 seeds.

A joyful family reunion between a hybrid swarm of North American grain corns and a synthetic composite of 6 races of South American grain corns: Tuxpeno, Coastal Tropical Flint-Dent, Southern Cateto, Cuzco, Coroico, and high-altitude Andean. Harmony was developed to unify various diasporas of corn and to create a strong genetic base from which to conduct plant selection and breeding. Among the corns that I grow, this population most fully expresses mother maize's role as mother of life, teacher, problem solver, and sacred technologist. Contains flint, dent, flour, pop, and a small amount of sweet corn. Adapted to temperate growing conditions. Not day-length sensitive. About 85 to 115 DTM to grain stage. High resistance to predation by birds and small mammals. OSSI-pledged. 3 Tablespoons, >100 seeds.

A sister line selected from Harmony grain corn. Soft kernels that are particularly easy to grind or mill. Very suitable for making hominy and masa harina. More susceptible than harmony to predation by birds, small mammals, and insects. About 85 to 115 DTM to grain stage. 2 Tablespoons, ~80 seeds.

A sister-line selected from Harmony Grain Maize. An ancestor was Cateto, a South American race of corn with high carotene levels. The most exciting trait offered by this corn is high concentrations of carotenes. If this corn is fed to poultry, the carotenes end up in their eggs. So colorful, and Mmm Mmm Mmm! Selection is ongoing for oranger coloration. Variety preservation protocol: Cull any cobs with white kernels or colored pericarp. Cull any kernels with purple or gray coloration. Selected by Joseph Lofthouse in collaboration with ten-thousand years worth of illiterate plant breeders. The high carotene trait is an ancient public domain trait that is obvious and not novel, making this trait inelligible for patenting. 2 tablespoon, ~120 seeds.

This year's hottest fad in corn breeding is air-roots, after a study reported that air-roots harbored nitrogen fixing microbes. I went through a couple of my corn patches, and saved seed from any plant which had air-roots. I don't have a lab, or any way to confirm if the microbes were present. I suspect that the association is widely dispersed through older corn varieties, and is not specific to the one variety studied. Perhaps one reason this trait has been selected against in commercial corn varieties, is because the roots form a knot that doesn't break down nor till in easily. Selected by Joseph Lofthouse in collaboration with ten-thousand years worth of illiterate plant breeders. 1 tablespoon, ~45 seeds.

A landrace containing hundreds of varieties of dry beans. Bred to mature quickly in a cold mountain valley. Contains old heirlooms and new segregating hybrids. Growth habit tends toward bush beans or short-vines which don't climb poles. Plants with super-long or twining vines are culled. The beans mature in about 75 to 90 days. I often harvest the food crop about ten days after the plants are killed by fall frost. These have been selected for easy threshing using human scale techniques like beating with a stick or stomping with feet. I typically harvest and thresh at the same time by pulling up the dry plant and beating it against the inside of a garbage can. These are great used in chili, bean soup, or refried beans. When used in soups, some seeds stay firm no matter how long they are cooked while others disintegrate to make a rich broth. I plant a week or two after the last expected spring frosts. This variety is a plant breeder's dream. There is so much diversity that something is likely to do well anywhere that it is grown. There are plenty of traits, colors, textures, and tastes from which to select while using this as the progenitor of new varieties. Selected by Joseph Lofthouse to thrive under subsistence level growing conditions without pesticides nor fertilizers. OSSI-pledged. 2 Tablespoons, ~80 seeds.

Short season, landrace tepary beans. About half of this seed is recently descended from hybrids (F2, F3, F4), therefore the genetics are still rearranging themselves and making all kinds of amazing new varieties. I have selected for pods that do not shatter in the field, but that shatter easily after harvest. To harvest I recommend pulling the plant whole and hitting it against the inside of a garbage can. Avoid picking individual pods due to shattering. I also harvest by cutting the vine off just above ground level, finish drying on a tarp, and then beating or stomping the vines to release the seed. Selected by Joseph Lofthouse. 1/2 Tablespoon, ~50 seeds.

Out of seed until fall 2019.

I recommend planting Favas in Cache Valley, the day the snowcover melts in the spring, about the second week of March. Three week old seedlings may also be planted out at that time. Favas don't set seed well in hot weather, so the quicker they get established in the spring, the more likely they are to set seeds. Planting so that they have mid-day or afternoon shade may help productivity. I'd love grow reports about plantings in mid to late summer, and whether they can make a crop before fall frosts. Growers in warmer climates, USDA Zone 8 or warmer, may get best results by direct seeding in the fall. This year's selection tended towards more broad beans, and fewer horse/pigeon beans. Bred by Joseph Lofthouse. ~25 seeds.

A great tasting muskmelon with a heavenly aroma and taste: musky, sweet, and soft. An unsophisticated eater might not even realize that this is the same species as what restaurants and grocery stores sell! Best picked just as the fruits are starting to turn yellow, and when the fruit slips from the vine when pulled gently. Limiting water after the first fruits start to ripen leads to higher quality. Developed to thrive under subsitence level growing conditions without cides nor fertilizers. Adapted to a short-season cold-nighted high-altitude mountain valley. This variety has done well in hot climates because it comes on early and produces fruit before the worst of the summer heat and diseases. ~75 to 90 days. Orange fleshed. Netted skin. Fruits about 3 to 5 pounds. Direct seed after danger of frost has passed. Descended from about 80 named varieties of cantaloupes and muskmelons. Bred by Joseph Lofthouse and Susan Oliverson in Cache Valley Utah/Idaho. OSSI-pledged. 1/2 teaspoon ~30 seeds.

This landrace is the result of a decade-long breeding project involving around a dozen growers, about 300 named cultivars, and thousands of new promiscuously pollinated hybrids. There is lots of variety in shape, skin color, and size. I have selected for mostly yellow-fleshed fruits because they are sweeter tasting under my growing conditions. I recommend soaking seeds for 16 hours prior to planting, sowing heavily, and that slow germinating or slow growing plants be culled early in the growing season. Pre-germinating the seeds in pots of coconut coir or vermiculite is a good way to screen for quick germination. (I'm serious that you should chop out any plants that germiante or grow slowly.) Plant after danger of frost has passed. Fruits about 5 to 10 pounds. ~90 DTM. Bred by Joseph Lofthouse with major contributions from Andrew Barney, Susan Oliverson, Alan Bishop, Diane Speed, Soren Holt, other collaborators, and 10,000 years worth of illiterate plant breeders. Seed is limited, so I'll only send one packet per person. ~25 seeds.

Fruits around 5 to 15 pounds. Promiscously pollinated. Selected for: Short season, great taste, dry flesh, soft leathery skin, medium sized fruits, productivity, and long storage. These have been grown for many generations without crop protection chemicals nor fertilizer. So they thrive in spite of our bugs and diseases. This is a sister line to my small-fruited maxima, so they may be planted together. About 90 DTM. Bred by Joseph Lofthouse. 1.5 tablespoon, ~35 seeds.

Contains mostly bush types with a few percent semi-sprawling type vines. Fruits may be green, yellow, orange, tan, or striped. Bred by Joseph Lofthouse. ~40 seeds.

A genetically diverse cucumer landrace. Dual purpose so can be used for fresh eating or pickling. The skin color at fresh eating stage is light yellow to dark green. Seed saving protocol is to taste a piece of the skin from near the stem, and then only save seeds from non-bitter fruits. Bred by Joseph Lofthouse. OSSI-pledged. 1/2 teaspoon, ~40 seeds.

A small yellow cucumber that I grow for Barney Northrup of Crumb Brother's Artisan Bread to use in making fermented pickles. Fruit size and plant size are both small. It produces a lot of fruits. I don't particularly like growing inbred varieties, so I grew this seed in the same field as my landrace cucumbers. I expect about 5% cross pollination. . . 1/2 teaspoon, ~40 seeds.

Big Hill tomato was my first attempt to breed a promiscuously pollinating tomato. The anther cone is open and the anthers are loosely attached to each other. The stigma is exposed. It has a bold floral display, and the flowers are open to the sky and not buried in foliage. Determinate. Large (12 oz) bi-colored fruits: red and yellow. Tastes great. Big Hill is fairly susceptible to cross pollination. Promiscuous pollination is a defining characteristic of this variety. Closed flowers are a dominant trait. Therefore any offspring that have closed flowers are off-type and should not be called Big Hill. I would love to receive seeds from any descendents of this variety that are off-type or have closed flowers since they are hybrids and would further my breeding project. The ancestors of this tomato are Hillbilly, which has been my life-long favorite tasting tomato, and Jagodka, which is my earliest market tomato. Big Hill represents the best traits of each ancestor. Bred by Joseph Lofthouse. OSSI-pledged. ~20 seeds.

Segregating hybrids from a cross between Yellow Pear and Brad. Brad is tied with Jagodka as my earliest tomato. Yellow Pear is famous as the tomato that the spouse that doesn't like tomatoes will eat. Indeterminate. Fruits might be red or yellow. Fruit shape/size might be pear, cherry, or saladette. Leaf shape is expected to be 1/4 potato-leaved, and 3/4 potato leaved. This is great breeding material for people that want to develop their own varieties of saladette or smaller tomatoes. 1/8th teaspoon ~60 seeds, so you'll have lots to choose from.

I grow the wild tomato species and hybrids close together hoping for interspecies hybridization between them.

The taste of the wild tomatoes and hybrids with wild tomatoes are highly variable, from super-sweet and fruity to spitters. Taste is best if they ripen for a month after they fall off the vine.

Germination of the wild tomatoes and crosses can be erratic. I'm including enough seed in the packets to try to compensate for that. Successive flushes of germination may happen every few weeks.

The largest-fruited, earliest, most productive tomato to emerge from the Gnome Family of the Wildling Interspecies Hybrid Swarm. This doesn't have any of the traits desired for the promiscuous pollination project, but it was such a nice variety that seeds were saved separately. Genetically, this is half domestic, and half Solanum habrochaites. Fruits were yellow and hollow, similar to a pepper. During germination testing, 1/3 of the plants were potato-leaved, leading me to believe that Brad was an ancestor. Brad is tied for first place as the earliest tomato in my garden. These are F4, and set fruit easily, so I think that the mother was self-compatible. Taste is fruity, in other words, it doesn't taste like a typical domestic tomato. Because this is experimental, and from an interspecies hybrid clan, germination may be erratic. Pinch of seeds.

If you would like to explore the tomato genome for sweet, fruity tasting fruits, this would be an excellent place to start! 3rd to 4th generation seeds from crosses between domestic tomatoes (50%) and Solanum habrochaites (~35%) or S pennellii (~15%). These are part of the polyamorous, and panamorous tomato breeding project. The end goal of this project is beautifully promiscuous tomatoes.

This is a muddled assortment of genetics. Leaf shape can be anything from potato-leaved, rugose, regular-leaved, habrochaites-leaved, fern-leaved, pennellii-leaved, etc. Fruit color might be green, pink, red, yellow, white, or purple. Some fruits are striped prior to ripening. Mostly cherry tomatoes, though some fruits in later generations are expected to attain 8 ounces. Up to a quarter of the plants may be determinate, the others are indeterminate. Plant size might be anywhere between dwarf and monster. These are a mix of self-compatible and self-incompatible plants. Some plants might be self-incompatible, but have self-compatible flower types, so pollination may be problematic.

I am hyper-excited to release this seed because of the tremendous amount of diversity it carries within it. There are all sorts of paths that your selection and breeding might take. I am intending to select for open flowers, exerted stigmas, huge-petals, bold floral display, self-incompatibility, fruity-taste, and larger fruits.

Some of these may be immune to blights. I'd love grow reports from areas in which tomatoes are nearly impossible to grow because of diseases or pests. I'd particularly be interested in getting seeds back from any that are grown untreated in a garden with terrible blight problems, and they survive as if the blight wasn't even there. (As of 2018-12-27, I have received that type of grow report, and gotten seeds back.)

One of the parents of these crosses originated at very high altitude. Perhaps some degree of frost or cold tolerance will show up. Descended from inter-species hybrids, therefore germination can be erratic. Large pinch of seeds.

Self compatible plants selected from the Wildling Interspecies Hybrid Swarm. The flowers act like regular domestic tomatoes, and easily self-pollinate. Leaf shape can be anything from potato-leaved, rugose, regular-leaved, habrochaites-leaved, fern-leaved, etc. Fruit color might be green, pink, red, yellow, or white. The mothers were mostly cherry tomatoes. Some fruits in later generations are expected to attain 8 ounces. Includes seeds from Fairy Hollow. Descended from inter-species hybrids with wild tomatoes, therefore germination may be erratic. Pinch of seeds.

Seed not yet available for sharing, but here is a tease for what I'm expecting in the next few years...

Self-incompatible plants selected from the Wildling Interspecies Hybrid Swarm. Exerted stigmas. Huge flowers. Beautifully promiscuous. Early. Delightfully fruity taste that has little resemblance to domestic tomatoes. High umammi. The project is already that far along. This year, we are screening for immunity to blights, and selecting for larger fruits.

Clusters of big flowers are carried above the foliage producing a bold flower display which earns this tomato a place in a flower garden. Stigmas are highly exerted. These are part of my promiscuous pollination project so there is a possibility that some seeds might have been pollinated by S. habrochaites, S. pennellii, S. corneliomullerii, or interspecies hybrids. Received high scores in spring frost/cold tolerance testing. This is the only tomato that reliably volunteers in my garden. Self-incompatible, so grow several plants together. They can be planted into the same hole/pot. Indeterminate. I am not preserving this variety, A number of accessions were combined together through promiscuous pollination. I am actively selecting for more domestic traits such as larger and sweeter fruits, earliness, and higher productivity. This is a wild species, so germination may be erratic. Very attractive to pollinators, especially bumblebees. Pinch of seeds.

Solanum habrochaites: Closely related to domestic tomatoes, and can act as a pollen donor to them. I have combined multiple accessions into a single population. It has done very well in both spring and fall frost/cold tolerance trails in my garden. It may contain other important traits that were lost during domestication. This population has huge showy flowers, and looks great in a flower garden. The stigmas are exerted for easier cross pollination. It appears that this population is self-incompatible, so a number of plants should be grown together for proper cross-pollination. I am using this species as a pollen donor in my promiscous pollination project. Some seeds may have been pollinated by other wild species, or by interspecies hybrids. Indeterminate. Pinch of seeds.

If you grow any of my grains, please consider joining and/or submitting grow reports to the Rocky Mountain Heritage Grain Trials Project being conducted by the Rocky Mountain Seed Alliance and collaborators.

Originally collected along about 40 miles of back-roads in the northern Utah wheat growing belt. Landrace. Grows about 4 to 6 feet tall. This would make a great thatching straw. Can be grown as a spring crop. For best results, plant in late summer or early fall. Selection criteria included: Growing feral without irrigation or cultivation; Ease of threshing; Less shattering. Selected by Joseph Lofthouse. Plants grow 4 to 6 feet tall making harvest a joy. 1 teaspoon, ~150 seeds.

A family heirloom that was developed on my family's farm by my great-great-grandfather. It was first released in 1890. The family story is that James was walking through his wheat field and noticed one plant that was growing better than any of the others. He marked it and saved seed from it to grow in his home garden. At one time, it was the most widely planted wheat in Northern Utah and Southern Idaho. Can be spring planted. For highest yield, plant in early fall. Bred by James Lofthouse in the 1880s. 1 teaspoon, ~80 seeds.

An ancient landrace variety from Iraq. Triticum polonicum. Tetraploid. The first time I grew this variety, I felt startled by the huge heads and large seeds. Very productive in my garden. Hullless, and threshes easily. This seed was collected from plants sown in the fall. May be planted in spring or fall. 1 teaspoon, ~50 seeds.

Hulless oats. To maintain varietal purity and good agronomic and culinary traits, I recommend only replanting seeds that thresh easily. Seed heads are about waist high for easy harvest. I recommend spring planting. This variety has survived the winter for me, with significant die-off. 1/2 teaspoon, ~70 seeds.

Very productive in my garden. Short plants requiring stooping during harvest. May be planted in spring or fall. This seed was collected from fall sown plants. 1/2 teaspoon, ~40 seeds.

Papaver, somniferum. Not for sale, but I'll include a packet as a gift if I'm already sending a packet of something else to you, or if you send me a first class "forever" postage stamp.

Commonly used as a garden flower, for floral decorations, and to add a great taste to baked breads. These have a glorious flower which is very attractive to honeybees. Annual. Spinkle seeds on ground in late fall or early spring then stomp to get good contact between seeds and ground. Packet size is approximately 1/16th teaspoon.

Plants about 3 feet tall. Perennial and winter hardy Tiny pinch of seeds. Germinates quickly at 85F.

A drought tolerant perrenial plant with bright yellow flowers. This seed was wildcrafted in Avon, Utah in the summer of 2018. This seed requires 3 months of cold/moist stratification, therefore, I recommend planting it in the fall.

Seed originally collected from the wild strain in this area. Plants 3 to 7 feet tall. Germinates slowly, about 3 weeks at 85F. Perennial and winter hardy. Small pinch of seeds.

The leaves on this variety are huge. That simplifies picking and drying single leaves. The plants grow about 6 feet tall. The flowers on tobacco are beautiful and showy. The combination of huge leaves, tall plants, and bold flower display make this a great plant to use for ornamental purposes. It is used by people in my valley for medicinal, veterinary, and pesticide applications. I'm not a smoker, so I'm not qualified to write about using it that way. I set out transplants, that I grow about like tomato plants, but I start them a bit earlier because tobacco seeds are so tiny. Go easy on the seed when planting. A little bit goes a long ways. Packet size is a small pinch, which might be around a couple hundred seeds.

I prefer this variety for ceremonial use. Plants grow about 5 feet tall in my garden. If the plants are chopped off at about 4 feet tall, they send out a profusion of new shoots that are easy to bind with thread for making smudge sticks. Packet size is a small pinch.

A grex of dual purpose flax varieties that work for seed and/or fiber production. They make a beautiful decorative flower. I consider flax to be a high-priority crop because of the rich abundance of omega-3 oils produced by the seeds. In my garden, flax is not as productive as Clary sage, but I grow both rather than put all my hopes into one crop. Grows about 3 to 4 feet tall. 1/2 teaspoon.

A promiscuously pollinating grex of kale. Brassica oleracea. Two generations of ancestors to these seeds survived the winter in my USDA zone 4/5 garden. I highly recommend planting kale in late summer for harvest of greens in the fall, and early spring. The flowers and buds are a delicacy. If planted in about September, just before the arrival of fall rains, this can be grown as a non-irrigated crop in Cache Valley. 1/4 teaspoon, >200 seeds.

The beginnings of a project to adapt Bok/Pak choi to my climate. A promiscuously pollinating grex of every variety of open pollinated (non-male-sterile) bok and pak choi that I could get my hands on. I highly recommend planting Bok Choi in late summer for fall greens. Some of this population is winter hardy, but I haven't specifically selected for that trait. 1/4 teaspoon, >100 seeds.

A mix of the most prolifically fruiting potatoes on my farm. Potato seeds germinate better in cooler temperatures, so starting on a heat-mat is not recommended. I highly recommend starting potato seedlings via the wintersown method. If starting indoors, I recommend sowing in 1/2" shallow soil, and adding soil to the pot as they grow. Or transplant the seedlings several times during early growth to bury the stem. Sprout in direct sunlight or under very bright grow lights to keep stems from getting spindly. Start indoor transplants no more than 6-8 weeks before planting out, just after the last spring frost.

Because of my decision to eliminate cytoplasmic male sterility from my garden and to not spread it to others, I am only offering seeds rom abundantly fruitful potato plants.. ~50 seeds.

This has been growing feral on my farm ever since I grew my first seed crop. An open pollinated variety with limited genetic diversity. It does well here, so why mess with a good thing? I really like planting this mid-summer for a beautiful fall crop that mostly misses the common turnip pests. 1/8th teaspoon, ~200 seeds.

Clones/cuttings/tubers of this variety are available. Shipped only during warm weather. I'll delay shipping until the weather warms up. If requesting this variety, please add $8 for shipping, which will cover shipment of several different kinds of cuttings/clones/tubers.

Lofthouse Sunroots (Helianthus tuberosus) originated as a cross between an improved population of feral sunroots collected in Kansas, and a commercial clone. They have been selected for vigor, productivity, and good agronomic and culinary properties like ease of digging and cleaning, larger seeds, bigger flowers, shorter stolons, larger tubers, etc. Because they are a genetically diverse population they set seeds prolifically, weather permitting. Collecting lots of seeds may require bagging the blossoms soon after petal drop to prevent predation by birds. This variety was developed for subsistence level growing without the use of fertilizers or cides. They are winter hardy in a cold mountain valley in USDA zone 4b. Sunroot tubers are very susceptible to dehydration, so roots are best stored in soil, or refrigerated in plastic. Plant seeds about the time that apple trees are blooming. Sunroots stored overwinter in the ground can be harvested whenever the soil isn't frozen. I typically cut stems off about a foot high in early winter to prevent winds from levering the tubers out of the ground. These are reliably winter hardy in USDA zone 4b. Bred by Joseph Lofthouse. OSSI-Pledged.

Prickly Pear Cactus, grown for the tasty fruits. Germination about 25% after 3 weeks at 85F. I have had good success germinating cactus seeds by putting them in a jar with an inch of wet sand. Then transplanting them to pots after they have sprouted. Cactus grow best if given plenty of water while young. I plant them in sand, and irrigate every day, during the summer, when watering the rest of the greenhouse plants. Then let them dry out in the fall. ~20 seeds.

Opuntia polyacantha. The most common native opuntia in my area. I eat nopales from this species if picked young. I consider the fruits to be unpalatable. This variety has lots of big spines, and is very resistant to predation by animals. 2 pads.

Clones/cuttings/tubers of this variety are available. Shipped only during warm weather. I'll delay shipping until the weather warms up. If requesting this variety, please add $8 for shipping, which will cover shipment of several different kinds of cuttings/clones/tubers.

Opuntia humifusa. Eastern Prickly Pear. This is the variety of prickly pear that I harvest as nopales for my farmer's market and local restaurants. It produces an abundance of nopales, and bright yellow flowers in the spring. It has a few large spines, and many tiny spines. It is not suitable for growing in the badlands, because it easily succumbs to predation by animals. In my climate, the fruits don't ripen sufficiently to be palatable enough for my liking. 2 pads.

Clones/cuttings/tubers of this variety are available. Shipped only during warm weather. I'll delay shipping until the weather warms up. If requesting this variety, please add $8 for shipping, which will cover shipment of several different kinds of cuttings/clones/tubers.

Opuntia basilaris. This has been hardy in my usda zone 4b garden, but I think it would grow better in a warmer climate. I think of this as a 'walking' cactus because the older pads die after the young pads send down roots, and so it moves across the landscape. My other cactus grow as clumps and retain a central stem. I consider both the fruits and leaves to be unpalatable. One pad

Clones/cuttings/tubers of this variety are available. Shipped only during warm weather. I'll delay shipping until the weather warms up. If requesting this variety, please add $8 for shipping, which will cover shipment of several different kinds of cuttings/clones/tubers.

Cylindropuntia imbricata. Also known as tree cholla. The spines on this variety have a hook, so it's the fiercest cactus that I grow! Flowers have been indistinct in my garden. 2 cuttings.

Clones/cuttings/tubers of this variety are available. Shipped only during warm weather. I'll delay shipping until the weather warms up. If requesting this variety, please add $8 for shipping, which will cover shipment of several different kinds of cuttings/clones/tubers.

Seed collected growing feral in non-irrigated places in Cache Valley. Phenotypically diverse. Quick germination at 85 F. 1/8 teaspoon.

I only posted the most glamorous and abundant seeds to this list. If you want other seeds, scions, or cuttings, or things from my breeding projects, or that I could collect from the wildlands, send me a message. Because they are small seed lots, and experimental, I don't do germination testing on seeds from the wildlands nor from my breeding projects other than planting them for my own use.

I am thankful for the donations of seed, equipment, and funds that have made it possible for me to develop so many glorious varieties. I love the tastes, smells, and colors of the vegetables. I am thankful that being a subsistence farmer, and living under a vow of poverty, allows me to donate tremendous amounts of food to those in need. I love you for your ongoing support and encouragement, as we collaborate together, to enhance food security through common sense and traditional methods.

Some of my varieties are experimental, or I only have a little bit of seed to share, or they did not meet my germination standards, testing at about 40% to 74%. Or I haven't got around to doing germination testing yet.(I'll move them to the regular list if I do testing and it's great). Low germination might be because I tested under the wrong conditions, or because the seed has low viability.

If you are already paying shipping, I am making those seeds available as gifts, until seed runs out. These include:

Mixed lettuce -- Descended from Frant Morton mix, selected for non-bitter
Big Hill Cross -- a naturally occurring hybrid. F2 seeds
Calendula
Fig-leaved gourd
Lofthouse Landrace Carrot
Small-fruited moschatas (too small, and wrong shape)
short season tomatoes -- grab bag
Heirloom apricot seeds -- breathing on the mother bruises the fruit. Taste is fabulous!

Lofthouse Winter hardy pea clade (Austrian X shelling)
Landrace yellow cucumbers, large
Lofthouse Buttercup squash
Mospermia clade -- Interspecies hybrid between Moachata and Argyrosperma
Giant Sunflower
Lofthouse Landrace popcorn
Small amounts of seed for leeks and Allium proliferum
Basil Grex
Cape gooseberry
Steve's XL tomatillo
Purple tomatillo